A Modification for Jill

In the comments today someone said:

"I LOVE this tutorial, great job! I was wondering what the finished size of the bag is? I'm trying to find a tutorial/bag that is at least 14" tall x 18" wide x 4" deep. I'm sure I could alter the measurements to match that, but wanted to get an idea of how much to alter...Thanks!!"

Now before I get into that let me say. Hi All! I have been busy and I miss you all. I'm alive and kicking, just very quiet in the blogland. I'll have to show you all the Hallowe'en costumes I made for last year. They were great especially if you are a Tim Burton fan....some Nightmare Before Christmas characters made special appearances that night!!

Anyway, before I get distracted and start writing a post I didn't intend to let me answer Miss Jill's questions.

The finished bag measurements are 10X14X4. So if you wanted to change the dimensions it wouldn't be too hard. I used 1/2 inch seam allowances because it's just easier to work with and leaves a little extra inside the bag so it'll wear better.

You should come up with something like this for your measurements:

Exterior Material

• Front & Back 15x19 inches
• 2 Sides 5x15
• 1 Bottom 5x19
• 2 Pockets 5x8** I made the pockets a little taller for you so they wouldn't look too short on the taller bag.
  

Lining Material

• Front & Back 15x 19 inches
• 2 Sides 5 1/2 x15
  
• 1 Bottom 5x19
• 2 Pockets 5x8
  
• 2 Divider Pocket 13x19

For the top where the handles meet the bag I would make the interfacing pattern the same way cutting 4 - 22x4 inch pieces and drafting the handle onto the interfacing.

I think drafting the Top Trim at the handles might need to be done backwards since I don't have all the measurements. I would fold the interfacing in half so the piece measures 11X4. On the cut edges (not the fold) measure in 2 inches from the edge and 1 1/2 inches from the top edge and mark. Along the top edge measure in 3 inches and mark. Draw the curve connecting these two marks. Cut the piece out and re-use as a template for the rest of the curves.

From "Now measure over 1 3/4 inches" you should be able to follow the rest of the instructions for drafting the Top Trim. Hopefully those measurements won't put the handles too far apart and the bag won't bow out in the middle.

I hope this helps you out a little. If you have anymore questions feel free to ask and send me along some pics when you get it done!

Cheers!
Kerri

I'll be back soon I promise, now that some new post ideas are a-brewing. Hey Hallowe'en isn't that far away now!!

Chicken Scratch Bookmarks Tutorial

Chicken scratch is such a pretty type of embroidery. It is quick and a great way to decorate up that stash of gingham you have tucked away. It is known by many other names such as Snowflaking, Depression Lace and Gingham Embroidery.

I'm completely addicted to chicken scratch now. The only items I have really seen it made into is larger pieces such as aprons, and pillows. I tried to come up with other objects where chicken scratch could be applied. They can't get too much wear because the stitches would get pulled or damaged. I decided a bookmark would be a nice small item that doesn't get too much wear, and would be quick to stitch up. So I made up a couple of small repetitive patterns. You can really go wild with these little stitches, and every little change has a noticeable impact on the finished piece. Test it out. I'd love to see what you come up with!

As usual, this tutorial is provided for personal use. Make up for yourself, gifts and charity. Please do not make to sell. If you are unsure feel free to email me. If you use this tutorial give credit with a link back to this page. And if you can give me a heads-up if you are making chicken scratch that would be great. I am thinking of starting a flickr chicken scratch group so everyone can see and share their creations, tell me what you think. Thanks!

For one bookmark you will need:

• 1/4" check gingham (you could probably get 4 out of a fat quarter)
• white embroidery floss (sewn with 3 strands held together)
• embroidery hoop
• needle
• 6" ribbon

The final measurements are 7 1/2"x2" for the bookmark and 2x2" for the tab.

Here are a couple of quick pictures to familiarize yourself with the stitches. If you would like something more descriptive go here and come back.



Those are all the stitches used in the flower bookmark. They are Cross-Stitch, Double Cross-Stitch, Running Stitch and Woven Oval Stitch. The Woven Oval is made by passing the needle under the leg of the Cross-Stitches twice to make it thicker.


The same stitches are used in the second bookmark, only the Oval is substituted with Woven Circle Stitch. The Woven Cirle is made by passing the needle under the Running Stitches two times to make the stitch thicker.

Since this is such a small object leave your material whole for stitching and cut it out afterwards.

Here are the two patterns. Just a little 5x5 block.


The tab is made by stitching one repeat of the pattern. The bookmark is made by stitching 5 repeats. Follow the shading in the pattern. You want to start your cross-stitches on the darkest check in your gingham. I used 3 strands of floss, but you can try more or less to see what the result is. I knotted the ends because the back of the piece is covered and small stitches might be noticeable.

Once all your stitching is done. Cut the bookmark and a backing piece to measure 8X2 1/2". For the small tab cut out the stitching and backing into a 2 1/2" square.

Pin the bookmark pieces with right sides together with the ribbon in between. Let 1/4" of the ribbon peek out from one short side between the two layers. Leave a small gap open on the other end of the bookmark for turning. Sew 1/4" seam around the edge with the wrong side of the stitching facing up. Clip the corners and turn right side out. Press.

Pin the tab pieces right sides together and sew 1/4" seam around the edge leaving an opening for turning. Clip the corners and turn right side out. Press.

Slip the free end of the ribbon into the opening left in the tab and pin. Topstitch around the tab to secure the ribbon. Topstitch around the bookmark and you're done!

Optional Box Pleat Tutorial

I forgot some of you liked the box pleats in the first crafty tool belt. It goes together just like the crafty tool belt tutorial just the math, and of course the pleats are different.

To figure out how wide to cut the apron and trim pieces:

Measure the width you would like your apron to be (e.g. from hip to hip or a little wider). If this measurement is less than 19 inches follow Option B. If it is 19 inches or more follow Option A.

**if you are unsure how much width you need, cut it wider. You can always trim off some of the width after you add the pleats and before you attach the double fold bias tape trim.

Option A - Add 8 inches to your measurement. Cut your apron and trim piece to this width.

Follow the directions for the original Crafty Tool Belt until it is time to pleat.

Box Pleats:

Mark the centre of the apron with a pin. Measure 2 inches and 6 inches from the centre pin and mark those places too. Now fold the fabric so the 2 pins meet and pin. The extra fabric should be on the wrong side of your fabric. Flatten the pleat and even it out so the same amount of fabric is on either side of the pin. Repeat for the other side.

Continue on with the Crafty Toolbelt Tutorial.

Option B

Add 6 inches to your measurement. Cut your apron and trim piece to this width.

Follow the directions for the original Crafty Tool Belt until it is time to pleat.

Box Pleats:

Mark the centre of the apron with a pin. Measure .75” and 3.75” from the centre and place pins at these points. Now fold the fabric so the 2 pins meet and pin. The extra fabric should be on the wrong side of you apron. Flatten the pleat and even it out so the same amount of fabric is on either side of the pin. Repeat for the other side.

Test fit and make sure you have enough fabric to attach the pockets (7.5” approx. on each side). If you don’t have enough you can make your pleat narrower. If your apron seems too wide, you can trim an even amount off each edge, just remember to maintain at least 7.5” on each side of the pleats to apply the pockets.

Continue with the Crafty Toolbelt tutorial.

Crafty Tool Belt Tutorial

For all coming over from Sew, Mama, Sew! Welcome! And I hope you stick around, there is always something going on here now. (I’m new and therefore obsessed with the whole sharing thing.) And for those loyal readers, I’m so very glad you’re still with me and I love the whole lot of you. The online crafty community is such a wonderful place!

I took pictures while the first Crafty Tool Belt was being put together, but somewhere along the way things went awry and the camera missed some steps so I made another one.

The inspiration for this was first blogged about here. I thought the idea was great and thought, ‘I can make that!’ A lot of thought and planning went into this and I took my cues from a tool belt, because it seems to be a perfect way to tote your junk with you without said junk getting in the way. But they aren’t very pretty, functional yes, pretty not so much. So I tried to come up with something that was both pleasing to the eye and would serve its purpose.

Okay, I’ve bored you enough with the background of this little guy and I’m sure many of you skipped the babble and just scrolled to the pics. So here is how it goes:

You know the rules. You can make these for personal use, gifts and charity. Do not produce them for profit. Please, credit this blog and link back if you make one. If you have any questions feel free to email me, my address is in my profile.

Crafty Tool Belt

You need:
¼ metre main fabric (you may need more if your hip measurement is over 46 inches. Just read the math section to make sure. Ditto for the accent fabric)
¼ metre accent fabric
1 pkg. SINGLE fold bias tape
1 pkg. DOUBLE fold bias tape

N.B. if you have the inexplicable fear of the bias tape go here. If you have already been there and still have the fear then just omit the tape, but you will have raw edges inside and you have to do the nasty hemming around the edges. Plus tape makes it pretty. No pressure, though!

Math for Accordian Pleated Toolbelt

You can find the math and directions for the optional Box Pleats over here.

I’m sorry but you have to do some math. Just a little bit.
Divide your hip measurement in 2. ____
You need 15” to apply both pockets. So subtract 15 from your number. The number you have left is the width after pleating. ____
Multiply this number by 3. ____This is the width of the material before pleating. **Remember this number, you need it later.
Add the 15” back onto this and if you would like your apron to wrap around your hips a little more add 4” or so. ____

This isn’t exact, it’s just to give you an idea of the width of the apron piece you need to cut. I could get the width I needed out of 40” wide fabric. If you need to make one wider than the width of your fabric just divide the number in two and instead of cutting one long apron piece, cut two halves of your apron and sew it up the middle. Repeat this for the bottom trim as well.

Just to make sure you got the right idea. My math looked something like this:
22-15=7x3=21+15+4=39 inch is the desired width of the apron piece.

**if you are unsure how much width you need, cut it wider. You can always trim off some of the width after you add the pleats and before you attach the double fold bias tape trim.

Fabric cutting:

• Main Fabric: Apron - 8”x desired width. Cut 1
• Accent Fabric: Waistband and Ties 4.5” x width of fabric. Cut 2
• Bottom Trim 2.5” x desired width. Cut 1
• Pockets 6” x 5”. Cut 4
• Loopholes 1.5” x 6”. Cut 1
  

Getting Started:

Pockets X2

Place two pocket pieces right sides together and sew all the way around leaving about an inch opening on one of the long sides for turning.

Clip the corners and turn right side out. Push out the corners and turn the edges of the opening in. Press. Topstitch along the long edge that had the opening about ¼ inch in from the edge. I stitched a long, narrow rectangle because I thought it would look nicer. Set aside.

Loopholes

Run through a bias tape making tool or fold under ¼” on the long sides and press. Fold in half along the length and press. Sew along the edges. Cut into two pieces and set aside. You could just use some double fold bias tape if you like.

Waistband and Ties

Pin two of the short ends with right sides together and sew. Press seam open. Fold in half with wrong sides together along the length and press. Fold ¼” along all edges and press. Set aside.

Assemble the Tool Belt:

Attach the Bottom Trim

Lay out the apron piece and the trim piece with WRONG sides together. Open up the single fold bias tape and pin it along the edge. Stitch in the crease closest to the edge (approx 1/4”).

Fold the bias tape down to cover the raw edges and topstitch.

*If you would like a rounded Tool Belt you can now fold the apron piece in half. Draw a curve along the corner and cut.

Accordian Pleats
OR
Go to the optional box pleat tutorial

Mark the centre of your apron piece with a pin. Measure ½ of that measurement you were supposed to remember and mark it with a pin. Now measure 1.5” from the centre and place a pin. Pin every 2” after that out to the last pin. Work out from the centre in the other direction in the same manner. Fold the fabric so the 1.5” pin meets the centre pin, pin in place. Fold the next pin to meet the edge of the fold you just made and pin in place, continue to form all your pleats. Repeat in the other direction.

Now test fit your tool belt. If you like it continue on, if not you can add or remove pleats, or trim excess off the edges. This is the last fiddling you will ever have to do.

Baste the pleats in place.

Apply the Double Fold Bias Tape Edge

Open up the double fold bias tape and lay the apron piece wrong side up. Beginning at the top right hand corner pin the bias tape with wrong side up along the sides and bottom of the apron ending at the top left hand corner. Do not attach to the top of the apron.

Sew in the crease closest to the edge.

Flip the bias tape to the right hand side and topstitch as close to the edge as you can.

Waistband

Open up the waistband piece and lay it with right side facing the wrong side of the apron piece. Sew in the crease. Flip the waistband so wrong sides are together. Turn under the pressed edge and pin in place on the right side of the apron. Pin the ties together as well. Starting at the top corner of the tie topstitch along the edge of the tie along the apron and the other tie ending at the top corner.

Attaching Pockets and Scissor Loops

Using one pocket and one loop pin the pocket at an angle on the side of the apron. Tuck the ends of the loop under the edge of the pocket and pin.

Sew around the edge of the pocket leaving the top open. Backstitching over the loops to secure them in place. Repeat for the other pocket.

Press your pleats and smile knowing you will never go searching for your sewing stuff again.

Part 2: Tote Bag Tutorial

So the exterior of the bag is done so on to the interior. First up is the Zippered Divider Pocket.

Zippered Divider Pocket:

12" zipper
2 9x15 zippered divider pocket pieces
zipper foot

Lay one divider pocket piece right side up. Centre the zipper along one 15" side and line up the edge of the zipper fabric to the raw edge of the pocket. Sew along the edge with a 1/4" seam. Lay the piece right side up and fold the zipper so it is also right side up which will turn the raw edges to the wrong side. Pin the fabric so it just touches the edge of the teeth. With a zipper foot sew along the edge of the teeth. One side of the zipper is attached. Now repeat these steps for the other side.

With the zipper attached lay the pieces flat with wrong sides together and pin. Sew a scant 1/4 inch seam along the three open sides. Clip the corners.

Unzip the zipper and turn the bag inside out. Press the edges and sew another slightly larger seam but this time begin and end about 1/4" from the stopper on the zipper.


Turn the pocket right side out and set aside.

Lining:

Sew the lining of the bag the same way you sewed the exterior but don't attach the bottom yet. Leave the lining so the wrong side is facing out.

Place the Zippered Divider Pocket inside the lining placing the edge of the pocket centred along the uninterfaced channel of the Lining Sides. Pin and sew a 1/4" seam to attach the pocket inside the lining. Make sure to sew all the way along that edge, not only the part where the pocket is or your lining won't fit properly.


Now it should look like this.


Now attach the bottom of the lining the same way you attached the exterior bottom.

Assemble the Bag:

If you would like to add a sturdier bottom in the bag cut a piece of plastic to fit (I used one of those hard plastic sheets out of a binder) and place it in the bottom of the exterior. Slip it under the seam allowances to help keep it in place and the slide the lining bag into the exterior bag. Line up the side seams and pin the two bags together. I've made this bag three times so far and every time the lining ends up a little too long so don't worry if it pokes out above the top of the exterior bag. It's more important that the inside be smooth and fit snugly rather than those top edges meet exactly. Sew all the way around the top edge of the bag to hold everything in place and trim whatever excess lining is peeking out of the top.

Attaching the Top Trim:

If you would like you can add a magnetic snap to keep the bag closed. I finally did this on this last bag and I love the results, but it isn't necessary. Just attach it on the insides of the Top Trim pieces.

Open the Top Trim piece so it lays flat. Stand the bag up and slide the Top Trim piece over the bag so the raw edge of the Top Trim matches up with the top edge of the bag. Pin all around the top of the bag. It will look like this:


N.B. If you opted for the magnetic snap make sure the side where they are attached is not the side that you are pinning to the bag or else you will have little magnets on the outside of your bag.

Carefully sew a 1/2" seam all around the top of the bag. Pull up the Top Trim piece and turn the inside to the inside. Pin the inside of the Top Trim piece along the inside of the bag turning under approximately 1/2" to cover up your stitching line. Carefully top stitch all around the bag again and you're done!

Part 1: Tote Bag Tutorial

Okay, this is my first tutorial so go easy on me. If something doesn't seem to make sense I will try to explain it better. I tried not to get too wordy with it and used pictures where it seemed useful. Of course, the usual restrictions apply, don't pass this off as your own pattern, link to this tutorial and give credit if you do make this. Do not make this for profit, though if you get in contact with me and explain the situation an exception might be made. Please make this for charity and gifts, send me a pic if you do - I would love to see them!

I like a bag that is sturdy and looks just as nice when it is empty as when it is full. But this pattern does still look nice even if the lining isn't interfaced, or if it is interfaced with a mediumweight interfacing instead of heavy. Guess I'm just trying to say it is a flexible pattern.

Materials:

1/2 yard cotton for exterior
3/4 yard cotton for lining
1/2 yard cotton for handles and trim
2 yards heavyweight fusible interfacing
12" zipper to match lining fabric

Optional:

1 magnetic snap
1 14 x 4 inch piece of plastic (for bottom)

Directions:

Fold the fabric selvage to selvage to cut it. If you are a visual person I snapped these pictures to show all the dimensions.

Bag Exterior

Lining

* that red text I tried to highlight came out unreadable, it says 5 1/2 inches.

Handles

Once all the pieces are cut you will have:

Exterior

• Front & Back 11x15 inches
• 2 Sides 5x11
• 1 Bottom 5x15
• 2 Pockets 6x5

Lining

• Front & Back 11x 15 inches
• 2 Sides 5 1/2 x11
• 1 Bottom 5x15
• 2 Pockets 6x5
  
• 2 Divider Pocket 9x15

Handles

• 4 Handles 2x21 inches
• 4 Top Trim 5x19

There will be a few pieces left over. Make them into small pockets if you're feeling ambitious.

Interfacing:

Now that all the pieces are cut out cut your interfacing for each piece. I cut all of my pieces 1/2 inch smaller on each side to minimize on bulky seams.

A couple of exceptions are the Lining Sides. Cut a 4x10 inch piece of interfacing for each and then cut each one in half so you have 2 2x10 inch strips. Fuse each strip with the same half inch seam allowance so that there will be a 1/2 inch gap left unlined. This is where the Zippered Divider Pocket will be sewn in later.

I also did not interface the Divider Pocket pieces, or the Lining for the side pockets, and only interfaced half of the handles. For the Top Trim cut 4 18x4 inch rectangles of interfacing and we'll shape those next.

Top Trim:

To shape these pieces draw the pattern onto one Top Trim Interfacing piece that has been folded in half. Measure in 3 7/8 inches from the folded edge and 1 1/2 inches down. Draw a curve to remove the sharp angle and cut out this piece. Use the discarded piece as a template to draw the rest of the curves.


Now measure over 1 3/4 inches from the top of the curve (this is where the handle will be attached) and use your template to trace the curve again. Cut out the curve and then trace the pattern onto the other 3 pieces of interfacing.

Now fuse all the interfacing to your fabric pieces and cut the Top Trim fabric with a 1/2 inch seam allowance. Now it's time to sew!

Handles:

Pin two handle pieces (one interfaced and one plain) right sides together. Sew along the long edges leaving the ends open with a 1/2 inch seam allowance. Repeat for the other handle. Turn the handles right side out, press and top stitch.

Top Trim:

Pin two of the Top Trim pieces with right sides together. Place each end of one handle strip into the spaces for them letting them stick out about 1/2 inch or so beyond the end on the Top Trim piece. Make sure the handle is not twisted. Sew along the top edge of the pattern pieces and clip the curves.


Turn right side out and repeat for remaining pieces. Open the Top Trim pieces and lay them right sides together. Pin the short sides together on each end and sew.


Now turn right side out. Topstitch all the way around the upper edge of the Top Trim, pull the stray threads to the inside and knot. Trim and set aside.


Assemble the Exterior:

Pin one exterior pocket and a lining pocket right sides together. Sew across the top edge then flip so the wrong sides are together, press. Topstitch along the top edge you just sewed. Repeat for the other pocket.


Layer the pieces as shown in the image and sew along the turquoise line. With the other pieces layer them the same as the picture except sew the Pocket and Side pieces to the other edge of the fabric so you will end up with a pocket on each end of your bag. Open up both sets and lay them with right sides together. Pin and sew each end to create a tube.



Cut a small square out of each corner of the bottom piece to make sewing in this piece easier.


Line up the fabric so the corner of the interfacing points into the side seam. Repeat for each corner. Pin along the long sides of the bag.


Sew up these sides beginning and ending at the corners of the interfacing to preserve the shape of the bag. Line up and pin the short sides together on each end and sew them the same way.

You're done with the exterior part of the bag! Now I think I should divide this tutorial in two posts because it is getting pretty long.